RABBIT FACT FILE AND CARE SHEET

    Feeding

Rabbits require a high fibre, low protein feed to prevent digestive problems. Good quality hay and/or dried grass (such as Spillers Readigrass) must always be available to maintain healthy teeth and a healthy digestive system. Ready prepared feeds, which can be purchased from pet shops, provide all your rabbits dietary needs, along with fresh fruit and vegetables (greenstuffs). Most greenstuffs are suitable for rabbits although be careful to avoid feeding potatoes (they have toxic parts), lettuce (can cause diarrhoea) or any plant grown from a bulb. Extra vitamins and salt licks are not generally required.

Any changes in diet must be made slowly (greenstuffs and prepared feeds) over a period of a couple of weeks, to avoid digestive upsets. Fresh water MUST be available at all times and renewed daily.

To enable your rabbit to extract as much protein, vitamins and minerals from their food as possible, they digest their food twice. They do this by eating their own caecal pellets. These are soft, kidney shaped droppings which are covered in a small amount of mucous. These droppings are very different from the dry round droppings that you will usually see your rabbit passing.

  Housing

Rabbits can be kept indoors or outdoors, either way they need their own space in an appropriate cage or hutch. There are many purpose built cages and hutches available, alternatively you could build your own. It is recommended that you purchase the best quality you can afford, your rabbit will need it for 7-10 years. Make sure that the hutch is large enough for your rabbit to stretch full out, and high enough for your rabbit to stand upright. Dutch rabbits are generally comfortable in a 4' x 2' hutch. If kept outdoors, the hutch should have a dark enclosed area to provide your rabbit with a quiet space. The main living area should be large enough for your rabbit to stretch full out, and have wire mesh on the door. The hutch should be at least 6" off the floor to provide adequate ventilation. In the winter you can move your rabbits indoors or into a shed. They are also quite happy remaining out of doors, providing extra protection such as an old blanket is draped over the front of the hutch at night in very cold weather. REMEMBER--rabbits need good ventilation, you cannot therefore leave the cover down permanently otherwise your rabbit will succumb to chest infections from the damp, ammonia or overheating, and rabbits die from all of these.

If you keep you rabbit indoors, make sure you rabbit proof your home. Rabbits habitually chew and scratch at anything and everything. You will need to protect electrical, telephone, aerial cables etc. House rabbits can be litter trained, and best results are usually obtained if your rabbit is neutered.

  Bedding

Hay, straw (Barley straw or chopped straw such as MediBed) and wood chips all make suitable bedding for rabbits. It is down to personal choice which you use, however, research has shown that rabbits will choose straw rather than wood chip or wire bottomed cages. Some newspaper print can be poisonous to rabbits if eaten, so do not use as a liner if your rabbit does this. ALL BEDDING should be renewed at least once a week, and the hutch should be washed, scrubbed and disinfected several times per year.

  Exercise

Rabbits need regular stimulation and exercise in a safe environment. This can be in a purpose made rabbit run or simply by bringing your rabbit indoors and letting it play in your living room. Rabbits that are playing outside of their hutches, either in a run or indoors, should be supervised at all times and their play area must be ‘rabbit proofed’ by removing any hazards. Young rabbits will enjoy exercise but be careful not to over do it, particularly if you are still in the 'getting to know each other' period.

Rabbits are sociable creatures and enjoy the company of humans, dogs, cats and other rabbits if carefully introduced. It is generally suggested that each rabbit has its own hutch (particularly if you intend to show it) as rabbits are like children and usually prefer not to share ‘bedrooms’. They can, however, socialise together in common space, such as rabbit runs, and will like being able to see and hear another rabbit when they are in their own hutches. 2 bucks must NEVER be put together even in a run (they will fight).

Rabbits need to be occupied and they love playing with toys. This can include manufactured toys for human babies, birds, cats, dogs, hamsters etc. but rabbits will equally get hours of enjoyment from some very cheap, readily available items in the household.

Toys can include some of the following … if you use your imagination, this list can be endless …

 Rattles

 Squeaky toys

 Balls

 Toilet roll tubes

 Plastic flower pots

 Yoghurt pots

 Cardboard boxes with entry holes cut into them

 Dog baskets turned upside down

 Untreated wicker drink mats, baskets etc. (can be stuffed with hay)

  Health

Your rabbit will require annual vaccination against Myxomatosis and Viral Haemorrhagic Disease (VHD). It is also recommend that you get your rabbit covered by Pet Insurance as veterinary fees can mount up. Please feel free to visit this link to claim 4 weeks FREE cover from PetPlan. Never leave a rabbit in the sole care of a child. As an adult you will have to assume sole responsibility for the health and welfare of your rabbit.

We do not recommend neutering male rabbits unless it is deemed necessary as any operation is stressful. We do recommend spaying female rabbits that are not going to be bred from or that have been retired from breeding as this helps to prevent uterine cancer. Neutering can prevent territorial behaviour of both bucks (males) and does (females). Bucks can be neutered at around 3-4 months, and does at 6 months.

Rabbits have little ability to regulate their body temperature and die very easily from heat stroke. Ensure adequate shade is provided at all times. Handle your rabbit daily, and it will generally enjoy your company. NEVER pick a rabbit up by its ears, and always support your rabbits back and hind quarters when handling. Rabbits can easily experience spinal injuries. Rabbits nails need clipping every 6-8 weeks and teeth should be checked weekly to ensure they are correctly aligned. Rabbits moult 2-4 times a year, only one of these will be heavy (usually late Spring/early Summer).

Seek veterinary advice if your rabbit develops discharges from the eye, nose or mouth, has scabs inside its ears, is passing diarrhoea or mucous, or stops eating and/or drinking. Any ill rabbit must always be given drinking water in a bowl. Water bottles are a clean, hygienic way of providing water if you rabbit is fit and well, but ill rabbits often become listless and will be unlikely to be bothered to lift their heads up to the spout of a bottle and will dehydrate and die very quickly. If at all worried about your rabbit seek Veterinary Advice or advice from a local rabbit breeder or BRC District Advisor.

  Breeding

Contrary to popular belief the saying ‘breed like rabbits’ isn’t always true. Breeding, particularly breeding show stock, is an art that has to be mastered. You will need a pair of fit, healthy rabbits, a suitable hutch for the doe to kindle in and ideally a spare cage to move the mother to when they babies are ready to be weaned at around 7-8 weeks old.

When you have chosen the buck and doe to mate with place the doe in the buck’s hutch (never the other way round) and watch for a mating. If the doe is not ready she will not allow the buck near her so should be taken out and tried again the following day. The gestation period for rabbits is 30 days. Does usually begin nest building a few days before their due date so it is a good idea to give the hutch a good clean out at this time and provide her with plenty of clean hay to help her build a nest. She will pluck some of her fur out to bind the hay together and make a soft bed for her new babies.

On the day the doe is due to give birth she will need peace and quiet so try to be quick when feeding and watering her. If you happen to notice her giving birth do not disturb her or the babies. It is a good idea not to touch the babies until they are a few days old, and then only touch them if you have to (such as to remove any dead babies) and always stroke the mother first so that your hands smell of her. It is also a good idea to place the mother in a safe place away from her hutch so that she does not see you touching her young and give her a small tasty treat when you put her back in. Mother rabbits only feed their babies once or twice a day so you will be unlikely to witness this.

 

Baby rabbits will open their eyes at about 10-12 days old and will begin leaving the nest to explore a few days after this. As soon as they start to leave the nest it is a good idea to get them used to being handled, but always hold them over the floor of their hutch as they will be scared and jumpy at first. Some baby rabbits will scream when first handled, this is due to fright, so the baby should be carefully, but quickly, placed back in the hutch to calm down. Always be careful not to hold young rabbits too tightly, as their bones are very delicate.

The babies will start eating their mother’s food at about 4 weeks old so her food rations will need to be doubled at this time. By the time the young are 8 weeks old they will be eating as much as an adult rabbit each so remember to continue adding more food accordingly. When the young are about 7-8 weeks old they are old enough to live without their mother’s support. To minimise distress, leave the babies in the ‘family’ hutch they are used to and remove the mother. They can be split up individually and sold if necessary from 8 weeks old, although it is best to leave this until they are 10-11 weeks old if possible, but watch out for fighting if you leave them together longer. Baby rabbits must never be sold before they are 8 weeks old.

  Showing

The Hobby of Breeding & Exhibiting Rabbits is called 'The Fancy'. Every weekend, all over the country, rabbit shows are taking place. Many are Local Rabbit Clubs holding their single-day shows in places such as Village Halls and Scout Huts. Others are two-day Championship Shows held in Sports Centres and School Halls.

In order to exhibit rabbits in open competition in the UK, breeders and exhibitors have to be members of the British Rabbit Council (BRC), which enables the purebred rabbits to be registered for the purpose of exhibition. Exhibition rabbits are required to be identified with 'leg rings'. These rings contain information on the year of birth, the breed, and a unique number. Rings can only be purchased from the British Rabbit Council. Show details, show reports and articles relevant to breeders, exhibitors and pet owners alike can be found in the Fur & Feather--the British Rabbit Councils official journal, which can be purchased from most good newsagents or via subscription.